Is it lame that we’re in bed by 9 pm and I’m writing this update on our trip to Pau? Eh – I don’t care. We did and saw a ton today and I’m happy as a clam. 😉

Lemme tell you a little bit about Pau. It’s a city of around 77k people in southwest France, set along the northern edge of the Pyrenees mountains.  Plus, it’s only 85 km from the Spanish border. As a result, you get more Spanish influence in the food and more people speaking Spanish – all things that make Ralph a happy camper. And it’s a university town, filled with that certain energy that comes from having a youthful population. Vibe check? Great first impression!

We began our Saturday by strolling down the Boulevard des Pyrénées with gorgeous views of the mountains to meet some new friends for breakfast. Two hours of delightful conversation later, we had to pull ourselves away to explore the rest of the city! The good news is that we get to see them at lunch tomorrow and pick up where we left off. 😉

Then, we stopped by the tourism office to pick up 10 “Pass Gourmand” tickets. I was on the fence about this, but it was the best €15 we could have spent. These tickets let you get a sample of different foods and beverages – from the kiosks at Les Halles to little shops around town. Nibbling on regional cheese, sausages, patés, and chicharrones became our lunch – with enough tickets left for coffee, chocolate, and a Jurançon wine tasting after a refreshing nap. It was probably the cheapest food tour we’ve ever done, and navigating our way to each spot helped us see more of the city. 

Speaking of which, we were pleased by how walkable the city was – not too big and not too small, with less road traffic than you’d expect. For a February day, the temperatures were mild and once the sun peeked out from behind the clouds, it practically felt like spring. The plazas were filled with people shopping and eating meals al fresco. That’s an important detail because some towns are absolutely dead in winter. I guess you could say that’s one benefit to doing a home search in non-touristy months – you get a more balanced idea of what living there would be like.

We spent the rest of the afternoon at the Resistance and Deportation Museum where a man named Jacques walked us through each exhibit, bringing the people and their stories to life. But before we started the tour, the volunteer team kicked things off by sharing the most exquisite apple cake with us, because you know, it was “tea time.”

Ralph’s take? “I could live here…”

However…did we see a house in Pau? No…but if a suitable one pops up, I’d come back to check it out!